Well I am pleased to say the Myford ML7 lathe refurbishment and rebuild has been completed! My first piece of metal bar has been turned (see photo) successfully if nervously.

My first piece of metal turned following its refurbishment and rebuild

There are a few items still to be done but other than bolting the lathe down, they are just adjustments. Such as the main motor belt guard is catching the large pulley somewhere and the gear guard won’t go on because of the top filling/storage cabinet doesn’t give enough clearance when the gears are fitted.

I also have decided to make a new steel tool post and holder system as I have on my other lathe and two new gear studs as fitted to my ML10 and later ML7 lathes. Then there are the drawers and front door for the bench below and that should be about it. None of which stops me from using the lathe however the next job will be to bolt the lathe down and use the test procedure to make sure the lathe turns true before any serious work is started or done. However I must admit to a little smile at the smooth cutting of the aluminum……….

Today started with the fitting of the parts recently arrived from Myford (although some will have to go back as they are not correct). Starting with the fitting of the saddle and using the clever shims that cost around £5 each! Malcolm, from Myford told me when I ordered the parts that the shims come apart at around 0.015” a layer. They are separated by flicking the edge of the shim and then the layer pulled off. To shim the saddle you start at the back right hand side and using a dial indicator measure how much movement you get if trying to lift the saddle. The aim is to get under 0.0015” movement all around. The first attempt saw the saddle fit within the tolerance level set, however when trying to move the saddle the length of the available lathe bed, it became stiff when moving toward the tailstock. My immediate thought was the bed being worn more than I thought. Before making any further adjustments I remembered that I had only adjusted the saddle gib strip approximately and after a proper adjustment the saddle moved freely across its range with only about 0.001” movement of the saddle on the right hand front side.

The Myford ML7 shim, tear off 1.5 thou a time

Using DTI to gauge the shim size to fit under the saddle

With the saddle adjustment made the next job was to adjust the top slide and cross slide and then with a little trepidation I chucked some bar and made the cuts. I have enjoyed the refurbishment although I will be glad to get back to making the Seal 4 cylinder engine but that may have to wait for a few days since I will be helping my brother, Steve, with sorting our fishing boat out after all the smoke and oil that escaped from the engine after our last trip!

If you want to know more follow this link to our Dartmouth fishing site. If you are considering refurbishing your Myford then all I would say is go for it! Malcolm and Sarah at Myfords are a great help.

For the second day running I didn’t manage to stay out in the workshop for as long as I would have liked. However I did manage to pin the leadscrew and fit it permanently to the lathe so that was a positive. Even better was the smooth and free turning nature of the leadscrew after final fitting.

I decided that to cheer myself up, I would connect up the gear train and run the lathe at various speeds to ‘run in’ the new bearings of the counter shaft and leadscrew. However I was soon to discover that the gear wheel changing on this 1953 version of the ML7 had a really frustrating gear change set up! On my much loved ML10 (and the same for the ML7 according to the later manual I have) you simply unscrewed the retaining screw on the end of the pillar on which the gears seat. Not so my lathe! The screws on the end are in fact bolts on mine. They fit into two bolts with indents that fit into the rear of the gear casting. The hollow pillar through which the bolt goes then has another keyed bush that fits inside the keyway cut gear. The length of the pillar is more than the width of two gears and the screw is the same outside diameter as the inner pillar. So if you want to change gears you have to take the whole bolt, pillar and special nut off the casting.

Since there isn’t a lot of room between the casting and the lathe body this is a fiddly (bl*&^^y frustrating!!!!) job. I now understand why many owners either bought or built gearboxes! I will have to sort the problem out, but for now I have packed the gap with two large washers to fill the gap (about 3/16”) and a smaller washer for the bolt head to seat against. This works fine but it isn’t an ‘engineered’ solution (see I am getting posh now). It may be a simple case of reducing the overall diameter of the pillars (cant see that Myford would have allowed this situation so there must be something wrong –let me know) or buying a pair of ‘modern’ replacement fittings from Myford.

It may be just a ‘bodge’ from a previous owner which I suspect is the true reason for the discrepancy. However the gears were eventually fitted after discovering my driver gear may be an accessory rather than the standard gear. After much head scratching I found a set of gears that I had and would give a fine feed. I need another gear to get the finest feed, but I just wanted to get the leadscrew to turn over for now. And turnover it did, after all the oil nipples were given a generous amount of Myford recommended oil I rand the motor on a slow speed at first, in both forward and reverse directions, before speeding up, then varying the speed. The whole gear end of the lathe (I believe the tumbler gears are known for there noise) is a lot noisier than my ML10…….

However that may change with the gear cover on. The leadscrew seemed to run as true as it should with the naked eye. So I would consider the whole exercise a success in regard to making the new shafts and leadscrew. My thanks go to members of the HMEM forum for their ideas and support during this project and in particular to Peter who told me about a supplier for the leadscrew threaded rod. Whilst it is not finished, all the large ‘engineering’ tasks have been done leaving just a few items outstanding waiting for parts from Myford. I would say it is 90% finished and less than a days work left.

Fortunately I felt well enough this morning to get back out to the workshop and would love to show you  some photo's but for some reason (perhaps its like me and worn out!) the memory card has become corrupted and will not clear, so good old eBay to the rescue and a replacement has been ordered.

Today I managed to finish turning the last shaft, which fits between the leadscrew and the gear to turn the leadscrew itself. The joining adaptor was also bored and reamed to fit the new shaft. All that now remains to do on the leadscrew assembly is to mill the long slot on the recently completed shaft, and drill a couple of holes for roller pins and glue the joints.

The last few items to be assembled showed up more items that really should be replaced. The two under saddle plates in particular. Also no shims existed and these would definitely need to be installed. I could not locate the leadscrew nut for the cross slide and am not sure it was even there when the lathe arrived. So it was a case of phoning Malcolm at Myfords and make my third and hopefully final order. which means that whilst I should definitely complete the refurbishment in the sense of making new parts, the final assembly will have to wait upon the delivery from Myford.

It seems that it was a good job I phoned Malcolm as he very kindly explained the method of shimming the saddle. There are 5 shims needed and at just under £5 a piece they are not cheap at first sight. However they are made up of various layers and they can be stripped off to get the right size. I will do a write up of the procedure on my main website with photo's (fingers crossed!) next week and it is not simply a case of putting them between the plates and the saddle (I also took the opportunity of buying two new plates as well).

I did however use the Myford lathe for the very first time today! It may only have been to clean up the end of the new shaft from burr's but it was used! When the project is complete I will list the costs incurred and an approximation of the time taken. It may make 'interesting' reading.

I managed to get out into the workshop today, and spend the morning there. The two bushes for the left hand or gear end of the leadscrew were turned, bored and parted off to size with little drama.

When looking for material to make the shaft that fits the left hand side of the leadscrew, I could only find a piece that I had set aside for my boring bar! I will have to order some more stock for the boring bar as finishing the Myford refurbishment is my highest priority at the moment.

After setting the bar to run true in the four jaw chuck, with just enough showing to allow the DTI to sit on, it was faced off then centre drilled to allow the revolving centre to be used for turning. The 4 jaw was then opened enough to take the bar far enough out to turn the outside diameter to size over its length. With the live centre in place, the 4 jaw chuck was then tightened and set to run true again with the DTI.

Once the shaft was running true I started to make the first cut but couldn’t get the speed and feed to run without chatter. So I did the same as when turning the contra shaft, and ran the lathe very slowly at 90 rpm and the leadscrew at its finest setting. The length to be cut means that this is a slow job. Fortunately there isn’t a lot to take off and I do get a good finish using this method.

Whilst the Turner lathe was doing its bit I spent some time tidying up some of the outstanding jobs on the Myford, such as replacing oil nipples and removing the belt tensioning shaft, so it can be drilled and a new roller pin fitted. I did take the opportunity to also clean the parts and then apply metal adhesive, so it won’t need to rely on the roller pin to take the strain.

The gears that came with the lathe were checked against the sizes for turning the leadscrew at its finest feed (0.0018 from memory) and sorted the gears out ready to attach when the leadscrew is complete. I seem to have some additional sizes, 2 x 80 teeth and a 127 tooth gear! I am however missing a 75 tooth gear so will have to seek one out.

The gear guide was placed into the gear cover and secured and one or two other small jobs done reducing the work left after the leadscrew shaft is completed. I am hoping to complete the complete refurbishment by the end of next week subject as always to health issues. It will be nice to get back to building the seal engine and I am looking forward to making the camshaft using Steve Huck’s method and cutting chart.  Look back and see how I am getting on.

Only managed an hour or so in the workshop over the last few days but felt well enough to go out today and finish the last task on the new leadscrew. That of cutting the threads on the end of the right hans side of the lathe. Both ends have now been machined. The brass collet I made worked well and protected the threads fine. Next time I would part off another 1/4" long piece just for the dial indicator to rest on as the overlapping slots cut on the main collet did disrupt the centreing process. However it was nice to see that when cutting the threads down, that they all disappeared at the same time. Showing the leadscrew was running true. No real drama occured and this was more than likely down to the 'fear' factor of cutting the new leadscrew. It turned very well and a clean finish was achieved without too much problem. One interesting aside was the effect that turning a thread had on me. The way the thread looked to be moving toward the cutter started to make me feel a little sick! I had to turn away until nearing the end of the cut. The effect was soon reduced though as the thread was cut down. Once the bar was turned to size (using the half method) the thread run out indentation was cut using the parting off tool, and then the threads were cut on the end using a die. The new tailstock die holder is proving valuable and I would recommend them to you if you don't have one. They should be easy enough to make but its the time I am short of and they are not dear.

The front or left hand side of the leadscrew was then turned to size and the leadscrew removed from the 4 jaw with much relief. A start has been made on the new bushes required for the gear end of the leadscrew and hopefully if I feel up to it, they should be finished tomorrow. Hope to make a start on the shaft that fits between the leadscrew and gear end tomorrow as well.

The only large scale job left is the leadscrew and I am waiting for some reamers and other tooling to arrive before I can tackle that job.

The photo below shows the current state of play.

I did waste some time cursing a previous owner for the bracket made to hold the belt guard for the motor to countershaft. When fitted, the belt was off centre to the cover, but it was a simple case of the belt tensioning shaft being off and it should have been off centre! I only saw this after making a new bracket, then a spacer to put it exactly where the original bracket positioned it! Double Doh is an understatement.

Another silly waste of time was hunting down the bracing bracket between the motor base and countershaft casting. Where was it? Secured to the countershaft casting and just hanging loose! When putting the bracket to its position there was an obvious need to a spacer so I turned up a new one only to find the original on the table of spares later on! But that’s only to be expected when I am as dopey as I am at the moment.

Today I cleaned up and assembled the cross slide thread assembly and made a sheet steel shelf to attach to the splash back of the lathe stand. I wanted to bash a bit of metal and so I did, only making me worse that I was to start with……..so a week of unenforced errors really, no great drama’s just poor concentration and the little time I spent in the workshop, squandered. So it comes as a great surprise to see how much of the lathe has been completed.

Next week the reamers and other goodies will arrive and whilst I have had the cleaned (but hard used!)3 jaw chuck moving I may get to turn some bar on it by the end of the week! We will see as they say………..

The main target to day was to complete the machining of the motor pulley and start rebuilding the Myford ML7 lathe. Boring of the 0.750” diameter hole proceeded with little drama if a little slowly. Once done to a nice snug fit, the next task was to cut the key way. Now I must admit that whilst I have read about the procedure in the past I have not had cause to cut one.

My starting point was to finds some tool steel of the same width as the key on the motor shaft, then grind the end of the tool steel to my own cutting profile. When done, I started by isolating the lathe from the power supply, to make sure I didn’t do anything silly! I placed the tools steel in the same position on the tool post as a boring bar but the cutting face on its side facing me.

I thought it would be useful to make a mark on the pulley of where the key way was to be made and proceeded to make the first cut using the top slide. By only moving the cross slide out by 1 thou (0.001”)of an inch made another cut.

After a short time a nice keyway started to be formed but I was concerned as the amount of pressure being placed on the top slide. So I decided to use the cross slides main hand wheel instead, and keep the top slide closed. This certainly helped to speed up the process and felt a more comfortable a solution.

I will make a fixture for future use (add it to the ever growing list of tools to make!) which isolates the need to cross or top slide to be used. There are various examples in books and magazines and no doubt there will be many more keyways out there waiting to be made………

One silly mistake I made was to just cut the keyway where the pulley ended up when secured in the 3 jaw chuck. When trying the fit I was pleased, only then to find that the keyway position meant the grub screw used to secure the pulley was now partly over the pulley key! All I had to do was to take note BEFORE I made the keyway of where the tapped hole was. Not a great problem, but now I needed to drill and tap for a new grub screw.

After the pulley was cleaned up a little it was provisionally fitted to the motor on its bracket. What next I asked myself? Well there were several boxes holding various screws, bolts and other fixtures so I though a general reorganization of parts would be useful. So I set up a table and sorted out all the parts of the great mechanical puzzle so I could see what was what to re-assemble the lathe.

When the parts were sorted I thought the best way forward now was to put together as much as I could even if it had to come apart again when the parts from Myford arrive. A start was made by putting the tailstock back onto the lathe and it’s a part I think I will have to have another look at as it could be better. The next item assembled was the cross slide and saddle. The lead screw lock nuts were oiled up and the gib strip fitted. When looking at the cross slide I decided that since the fixings are metric (!) I would treat the lathe to new bolts. A new handle was fitted (not impressed with the handles sourced from a non Myford source) and I may have to make a small sleeve to match the difference between the handle bore and the saddle pin. Not a great difference and the handle tightens with the grub screw, but not really satisfactory. Another add it to the list item.

I have thought several times that the lathe has had work done on her before, and now I am certain. When I took the lathe apart I religiously kept everything in different small containers. Now putting the cross slide back together I couldn’t find any laminate shims that fit between the cross slide and two plates that fit under the top of the lathe bed and the base of the cross slide. There must have been something because the cross slide will not move if the securing bolts are fully tightened, and I remember it moving when the lathe arrived (or at least I think it did…)

So they will need to be purchased (that will be the third order!) and because of this omission I have decided that the lathe will be completely re-assembled and only then will I make the 3rd order from Myford. When the parts arrive the relevant parts will be disassembled and new ones fitted. So that’s what I will do.

So far the tailstock has been fitted along with the motor bracket and cross slide and saddle. The lead screw has also be partly fitted.

All in all not too bad a day.

Spent the day on the phone spending money and painting the biggest casting kit I have ever owned! Yes I have adopted the view that the lathe I bought last February, is best thought of as a large kit of castings and I am now refurbishing. A description is written on my new Myford blog site why not visit and have a look.

I may set up seperate blogs for each major project in the future. I will see if the Myford experiment works before I go mad!

This time last Sunday I was anticipating a fishing trip plus the start, and hopefully, completion of the camshaft for the Seal engine. Instead of that I have seen the Myford ML7, bought last year, moved into the main workshop and my beloved ML10 sold to George in nearby Dawlish Warren! I certainly didn't see that coming!

When attempting to sell the ML10 on eBay (as well as listed on my main website)I was very surprised my answer to a question raised by one bidder, has raised quite a few comments. All of which I am pleased to say have been supportive. Basically one of the potential bidders asked if I would "lash" the lathe to a pallet and send it by courier. My response was I wouldn't lash my lathe to anything! I also suggested that the person not bid on my item at all! Why we get so attached to a lump of metal I don't know, but the reason I decided to sell the ML10 to George, was solely on the fact that I thought he would look after her. We (or is it just I?)are a funny lot........

However, having spent the middle and end of the week a little under the weather, I eventually got around to listing the ML10. It sold after just a couple of days just going up the coast a few miles. 

Today I spent time cleaning up the ML7 and painting some of its many parts. The cast iron lathe bed has been painted in Myford green and an inspection of the main lathe parts completed, with a shopping list of spares drawn up to order from Myfords tomorrow. 

However I have changed my approach to the rebuild, whereby I am now going to replace only the obvious faulty items. Then reassemble the lathe and get it up and running, so I can discover the accuracy levels I can achieve with the lathe as it is.

I am prepared to send the lathe bed back to Myford for a regrind if it proves necessary, but since they only regrind in batches every few weeks (and of course the last one was 16th January), with the next one due in March, that will give me some time with the lathe before needing to make the decision to regrind or no.

One major advantage in having a quality British Myford lathe is the spares availability from Myford, which are considerable. Tomorrow should see me phoning a couple of companies advertising converters/inverters and new electric motors, because I will definitely be buying a new 3 phase motor and variable control system. I will also be buying a digital readout system and fitting it to the ML7.

Time, as ever, will tell.

Yes, my first model engineering purchase is up for sale! And I have very mixed feelings about selling her. However, it is difficult for me to justify to myself, let alone SWMBO, in keeping 3 lathes! Also the funds realised from the sale will allow me to refurbish the ML7 that will include a variable speed new motor, and digital readouts. None of which comes cheaply.  The picture below shows the starting point!

Myford ML7 that will be refurbished over the coming weeks

The end result should be a lathe that will outlast me. Not too bad an ambition.

You can follow the rebuild on my main website www.mikes-models.com