Shock Absorbers for a child’s electric van

Van shock absorbers - originally designed for mountain bikes

Van shock absorbers - originally designed for mountain bikes

Whilst I am slowly making progress on the Seal crankshafts I am always on the look out on eBay for items for the electric van project I am going to build for my grandchild, Freya. I have done many drawings using Alibre on my downtime and the chassis is the first item I shall build when I start. I have done the specification and one of the items I need has just been sourced, the shock absorbers on eBay!

I was going to make them but was hesitant about  making suitable springs, however the springs I have purchased are for mountain bike use and are ideal for the van. They were only £5.99 each (including postage/shipping) and to be honest the materials alone would cost me more than that so I purchased 4 and the have just arrived. I must admit to being pleasantly surprised, they are ideal for the project although the must now be packed away with the wheels and rear axle bearings until I finish the Seal crank(s). If you don't use eBay you should try it. I have also bought high quality micrometers, slip gauges and the like on eBay which I never could afford to buy new!

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Posted in General engineering posts, Ride in Van | 1 Comment

Local Auction produces a bargain – Large granite surface plate – £5 Excellent!

Yesterday I dropped in to a new auction house just up the road from us. It was a 'general sale' and to be honest there was a lot of rubbish there really. However, in full view of everyone, was a large commercial granite surface plate.  I couldn't believe my eyes!!! I had a good look at its surface and it has either been looked after very well, or had little use.  Whilst I do have a granite surface plate of my own, bought on eBay (as a Christmas present), mine is a little on the small size and has some restrictions  in use. So I thought it might be worth going back just to see how much it went for in the auction

It was advertised in the catalogue as "Granite slab) and several people looked at it as they went past although whatever they thought they would use it for I have no idea. Anyway, since all the previous items were being sold for little money, I wondered if there would be any competiton when it became my time to bid. Perhaps more importantly, was there another model engineer in the room?

When its number came up I waited to see where the auctioneer would start with its price and you could have knocked down with a feather when he just started the bidding at £5!  I waited to see if someone else was interested, but nobody else bid and just before he was going to withdraw the item, I stuck my hand up........silence......then in a short time (I had the feeling they were pleased to get a bid, it had previous auction label remains on it) he 'knocked it down' and it was mine for £5 (plus 10% commission) and they even carried it out to the car as well (good job because I could not have carried it)!

Today my brother Stephen visited with his son Adrian, and they unloaded it from the boot of my car and into the workshop.

All I have to do now is carefully remove the auction labels and make a wooden box cover for it. If I had bought one this size on eBay it would have cost far more! So perhaps its worth having a look even in unlikely places for tools of our trade. It will be a long time before I can repeat this piece of good luck!

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Bad day at work! Con Rods put to one side so change of tack – crankshafts next.

Not sure it was needed but I 'normalised' the steel blanks

Not sure it was needed but I 'normalised' the steel blanks

I knew I shouldn't have gone out to the workshop, feeling a little under the weather after being brutalised by my younger brother Stephen (he maliciously tripped me up  when I was already wobbling - my life is spent being 'wobbly' all the time). However he also suffered some damage to his ribs, from laughing so much!!!

I have to make excuses for a very poor couple of hours at the milling machine somehow. Those who have been following the build of a pair of Westbury Seals here (or on my main website) will know I made a fixture for making the con rods and that the methodology for machining was in development. Well the radius turning for the ends worked well, and I shall keep that, but profiling the rest of the con rod didn't achieve either consistent, or satisfactory results, so it is going to be left until after the crankshafts now.

Another reason to stop is the revelation (to me after 4 years or so) that always using my scrap box (I call it recycling to be politically correct) for all my parts is not really the way to go for critical parts. Hugh, my nearest model engineering neighbour, supplied me with a link to his metals supplier. So I am going to order some aluminium flat, with known properties for the con-rods. That allows me to put them to one side, waiting for the metal to arrive (smart excuse eh!). I am simplifying my procedures as well. Milling to shape using 'normal' techniques is the best way to go only using my fixture to radius the small end and mill the indentation in the centre of the con rod body.

I tried to be to clever really, and use the rotary table in the same way I made the 4 chess knights. So when the correct stock arrives, at a known grade, and closer size, I am sure it won't take long to get them done.

Now over the the crankshafts. I got myself tied up in a knot over the requirement of HT steel for the crankshafts as described in Westbury's article and plans. This brought no end of trouble in cutting a bar of  HT steel in half (again being to clever for my own good  bought a bar of sufficient diameter to get two cranks from). In the end I went back to Hemingway's site (supply plans and a kit of castings as well as bar stock) and ordered two crankshaft blanks from them.

They arrived quickly enough and I put them to one side to concentrate on the con rods, however as you know from above this has now changed. A couple of years ago now I machined a piece of flat steel bar and was amazed when releasing it from its clamps, to see it bend like a banana! HMEM (the forum I use) members explained how cold rolled steel (that was what I was using at the time) had so many stresses when rolled that before use the metal should be 'normalised'. This is achieved by heating it to a cherry red colour, then letting it cool naturally, so releasing all the stress. Whether the steel as bought was normalised or not, ( knowing my recent luck, or rubbish working....) being bent like a banana,  is not good for an engine.

Since I had never carried out the simple procedure before, it seemed sensible to heat it up so that's what I did. Whether my cherry was dark enough I don't know, but its been done. So when I next go out to my home from heaven I will face off the ends of both bars so they are square, then drill 3 holes for the lathe centres to run in. One for the two central end shafts and the others for each throw.

I never seem to learn that the body is a better teller of  my potential workmanship than my head!

Posted in crankshafts, General engineering posts, IC model engines, seal engine build | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Progress of sorts with the Seal con-rods.

Well I managed to get out into the workshop this morning to continue on with the Seal con-rods, that's after quickly turning up a bush for the centre of a de-burring wheel. I was impressed with one I saw earlier this week on a visit to nearby model engineer, Hugh's workshop. After trying it out I continue to be impressed, even if they are a little expensive!

Anyway, on to the con-rods. I managed to reduce my steps during the night on machining with the small rotary table. Nevertheless it still took quite some time to refine the measurements and angles required. I think I am nearly there now and whilst I need to improve on my finished sizes (I always allow too much for final finishing. I should be  much braver!) I was pleased that the machining itself went without mishap. No grabbing the metal and climbing t who knows where!  The securing method of the fixture  made seems to have enough grip.

There is still some refinement needed but whatever else I believe I will achieve some accuracy with repeatability. Time as always, will tell. Here are some photo's but I must repeat, they are not finished!!!

One other simple but effective modification was attaching some rubber sheet (bought via eBay - use my link on the main website if you want to help with the running costs of the two sites, it doesn't cost you a thing.) which I used to replace the naff and tired clear thin plastic sheet used before. It works a treat so I may buy some more for the Y axis on the Milling Machine. See what you think.

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Another model engineer in Brixham!

I have just returned from a visit to a local model engineer who Iv'e known over the last 12 to 18 months. Hugh is a recent convert to model engineering and has a great home set up. He has recently added to his equipment and it is with some envy and jealousy (we are all human unfortunately!) with his set up. Hugh is going through the same learning curve as I did and it is really nice to see the progress he is making.

Hugh is building a beam engine but not being content to buy a set of castings, he has gone for a scratch built design. Not content to just do that he decided he would scale up the drawings by a factor of two! Well I have just seen his progress and he has produced something he should be proud of. I am hoping to have some photo's to show you and am setting up a page on my main website to show his work.

Hugh has also joined the local model engineering club in Brixham which is a good move. Unfortunately due to health reasons, only able to work and visit in the mornings, (I turn into a werewolf from 1400 hours onwards and am confined to lying down)I cannot attend the evening meetings so I use HMEM forum for help and advice but it certainly pays to join a local club.

My visit to Hugh's workshop brought benefits though since Hugh has loaned me a diamond cutting disc (well he would have if I didn't leave it on his bench when he ran me home!) and several internet contacts for suppliers he has found of benefit. In return I will be showing Hugh the procedures and methodology I use for silver soldering. So I suppose its an unofficial morning model engineering club in Brixham with no fees and a membership of two.....

One impressive piece of kit Hugh showed was a relatively simple de burring 6" wheel he bought from MSC. Using a piece of brass to hand he demonstrated just how effective it de burs. Most impressive.

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Latest photo’s of Steve Huck’s engine build

Steve Huck, who kindly helped me with making the camshafts for my pair of Seal engines, has sent me his latest photo's of the work he is doing and it is really impressive! If the photo's whet your appetite then visit my favourite forum and/or my main website. Steve is not only an excellent machinist he is also very productive. Anyhow have a look at his latest photo's

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The Workshop beckoned and I answer at last! Seal Conrods

Well the 25th January was the day I finally got back into the workshop to work on metal. In particular the pair of Seal engines. I have had either a real or perceived, problem with sourcing high tensile steel or its equivalent in the UK. I had previously purchased some round bar or the said material and thought if I bought the correct diameter I could saw it in half then get two blanks from it.

A saga then developed in trying various methods of sawing this &()*&^%$$ bar in half. Various suggestion's were made from forum members and email from followers of my two engineering sites (www.mikes-models.com as well as this blog). In the end I thought it may be easier to mill the bar down to get just one crank from it, whilst trying to find other suppliers of HT Steel in flat and not bar.

After securing the bar I used a new end mill with good quality cutting oil and off I went. I was pleased to see that the milling was certainly removing material so at least it would machine. I set about removing sufficient material so I could get a flat surface on 4 sides to allow it be be secured better in the milling vice. However after getting the 4th side done the cutter was worse for wear. I certainly could not afford to replace the cutter at the current rate of material so took it over to the grinding station and had a go at resharpening. Something I have never even attempted before, and was really surprised to find that the sharpening did actually worked! It may not have been to a toolmakers standard but it did cut better than before sharpening.

I then thought it may be time to invest in a milling tool with replaceable carbide inserts and approach the bar cutting this way. So that is why the title of the article is all about con rods!!!! I have yet to receive the tool so put the bar back till later (again!!). When looking around for something else I saw the con rod that came with the set of castings I bought second hand from another engineer. It was one that obviously did not pass his quality control (I have no doubt there will be others from me!) so I used this defective con rod to work out a machining procedure. Since I have 8 to make (a pair of engines, remember) I considered it to be worthwhile making any fixtures I produced to be in steel.

So now I can start on the process of making the con rods. I should also offer a health warning that my method has yet to be proven so beware..... After reading Edgar Westbury's comments in his 1947 article, and searching the net for other approaches I decided to ignore them all and look for my own. I decided that the form of the con rod would lend itself to the method I used when making the knight's, as part of a metal chess set, I made for the retirement of my younger brother Stephen from the Devon and Cornwall Police force.

The central tool in my method requires the use of a rotary table (my smaller 3" diameter table) and a special long 'T' nut with two securing positions located at the small and big ends. I intend to drill the blank undersized (to allow later reaming to finished size) then hold them securely to the rotary table.  They sit proud of the table by means of the height of 'T' nut and spacers between the blank and the 'T' nut.

Hopefully my next session will prove the methodology. If I get it correctly then it should mean the con rods all match (within myskill limits).

Look back to find out how I get on, and if you know of a supplier of steel in the UK for the crankshafts please let me know. I have contacted Hemingway's (supplier of the official castings and material's for the Seal) but I am waiting for their reply to see if they will sell the crankshaft material to me.

Nice just to be in the workshop again so :-P

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Happy New Year to all my Readers!

A happy new year to all my readers. Hopefully 2011 will bring more hours in the workshop!

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Merry Christmas and New Year to all my Readers!

Seasons best wishes to all our readers and here's hoping for many more hours in the workshop in 2011 than we had in 2010!

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