Child Safe paints and how they spray

I dislike working in wood and I hate painting. So of course with my new Grandchild the toys mum and dad want are........wood and painted!

The first toy I made was a puzzle and the only enjoyment was making the aluminium knobs, but Freya loves playing with it so that makes it all worth while.

However, the wooden box I am making at the moment with animals and shapes to push through corresponding holes, is not going well. The main problem has been painting. I decided to paint the inside of the box by painting the panels before assembly. Freya, like all infants likes to put parts into her mouth so all have to be a certain size and the finish must be safe! After searching the internet and eBay I found a supplier and bought pots of 6 acrylic child safe colours.

I decided that I would first sand, then paint with an undercoat, sand again then spray paint the acrylic. However the finish I was getting was poor in coverage, so I decided to dispense with the spray gun and use a brush instead. That's when I discovered that the problem did not lay with my many different mixtures of paint when spraying, but the paint itself is poor in covering even when using a brush.

Now the paragraph above is a shirt one but covered many hours of work! I decided to see if my local hardware store had any other types of paint that was child safe and surprisingly they did. It is called Plasti-kote fast dry enamel paint. I decided to also purchase a soft saple brush to apply it.

On return, after sanding back the previous work with the new Black and Decker Mouse sander I decided to apply a coat with a brush first since it takes a while to clean up the spray gun (and I didn't know how it would spray) and whilst it was in direct sunlight, was disappointed with the finish achieved. So it was sanded flat yet again and the spray gun got ready.

Earlier in the morning I decided to make up a 'lazy susan' (revolving table) using a bearing I had for some time. A couple of pieces of mdf were marked out using my chain method. Simple put I use a chain secured at the center with a screw and then one link is chosen and a pencil is placed in the link and the circle drawn. Good enough for a non critical dimension and it works. Once the pieces were marked it was over to the fretsaw and the circles cut out.

With the first attempt at a thinned mix, I was pleased at last to see good coverage! So at last I could move on and complete the inside part of the box. Additionally, the 'lazy susan' worked tremendously well and I only wish I had made one years ago! It is so flexible and helps spraying a part no end and it only cost a few pounds.

Hopefully now progress can be made and the box finished. With a set of blocks completed earlier in the morning, this is the last wooden toy to be made for a while. I am designing a motorised vehicle but I suspect I have 12 months to make that before Freya can use it. I intend to have it electric powered and flexible enough to allow the chassis to mount different bodies. That will be a project I will have no problem in enjoying though!

About Mike Freeman

Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom. I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups. Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again. I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought. My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!) It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in relevant positions. Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep. I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer. Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
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2 Responses to Child Safe paints and how they spray

  1. Janine says:

    Hi Mike

    I have found this article with great interest and was wondering if I could quiz you a little more about the process?

    I have a very simple spray gun. No compressor, just a hand tool from B&Q. I tried to use the Plasti-Kote paint but it wasn’t working. I think I probably have to use thinner for it. Can you tell me what thinner you used and how much roughly?

    Do you think it is pretty impossible to do spray painting as you have done above with a simple spray gun without compressor?

    Would be grateful for your reply.

    Thanks Janine
    info@the-fields.de

  2. Mike Freeman says:

    Hi, I think the best finish depends more on good preparation and don’t dismiss spray cans for small jobs. They are certainly less of a problem to clean up after! Just remember to always hold the can upside down and spray for a few seconds then wipe any paint form the nozzle.

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