I won't repeat the entry placed on my main website about today's work but instead will treat you to (You may not think its s treat though!) a few images. However I will point out one success that's perhaps worth highlighting, that of slit saw performance.
For those of you who are following my Blog you will know of a saw table I built (need to update it as well since the project is completed and I am using it!) to utilise some small diameter carbide tipped saw blades. Now these came to me from Canada (from a model engineer I exchange emails with) and certainly zip through aluminium................. However on a recent trip to Tracy Tools (only a few miles from me) I spotted some 1/16" wide slitting saws with side teeth, and bought three. I managed to fit the 4" diameter one to the saw table and in my opinion it is even better than the carbide tipped ones.
I must admit I was a little apprehensive of cutting the bracket slots but the saw made light work of the job and cut very true indeed. I must get some more from them. The side teeth are the key I believe and I have only used them on aluminium, so will reserve final judgement until I have tried them on steel. Anyway back to the motorbike handlebars.....well images really.......
Clamping the inserts so they don't move when drilling
The stainless steel inserts - one for tapping the other for clearance
One bracket finished -except for finishing! Lot of work on polishing to come
Using a square to set the position of the bracket for both drilling and slit sawing the slot
The full 'monty' as it were - both the uprights with handle bars and the brackets themselves - phew!
About Mike Freeman
Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom.
I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups.
Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again.
I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's
learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought.
My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a
stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own
shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the
bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!)
It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in
relevant positions.
Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable
speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep.
I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer.
Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This
was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
Looking at the main page it looks like you had a problem with the countersinking. Did you have a lot of chatter?
Hello Andy, you spotted what I hoped was a good idea…still unsure but the intention was to help with the adhesive to hold the bolt. I am cautious about the whole project and thought that running the countersink very slow I would get the effect that I had. This would key the surface to glue, however I am still unsure whether a well fitting but flat surface would indeed be better.
I know I can get a smooth finish so it may come down to the last moment before I decide what to do. I am researching the whole adhesive ‘thing’… at the moment. But well spotted Andy.