I thought my experience today with an anti-friction tape may be of some interest to other model engineers. During the wee hours recently I thought that there must be a product out there that you could buy and fix to various tools that would help ease their use. In particular I was thinking about my new saw table, Proxxon bandsaw, tool grinder and sanding tables.
When looking through Axminster tools website for something else I came across just the thing....... a tape called "Slick Tape" and since it was so 'reasonable' a price I ordered 2 boxes of the tape for a total cost of £8, For this I get around 6' of 3" wide tape. Other types are available and just click here if you want to see what they are.
I use Axminster quite a bit (UK based) and there service has always been very high with speedy delivery, indeed some times the goods have arrived the very next day! Back to the tape though.......I was surprised when opening the box that the tape was quite thick (I know it says 1mm in the description but didn't absorb this measurement at the time) and wondered if indeed it would stick! Just in case i thought I would get the electric heat gun out to warm it up. However when unrolling it to cut off the length I wanted I thought better of it in case it affected the pre glued tape. In the end sticking wasn't a problem and the heat gun put away again. I used a standard Stanley knife (on a cutting mat) to cut the tape and as long as you take three or four cuts instead of trying it in one go, you'll be fine.
Just to make sure it stuck I thought I would clean up the aluminium tops by using some light sanding, followed by blowing the dust off, finally cleaning up with thinners. So with a good prepared surface I peeled back around 2" - 3" of backing tape and lining it up carefully, peeled the backing off whilst pressing the tape down. Once it was in place I placed a piece of chipboard over the tape then using a couple of clamps, clamped the wood, tape, aluminium sandwich together.
Releasing the showed the tape had stuck very well and I need not of fretted over the glueing down. Whether it stays there or no I will get back to you on it, but I think it is down for good. When trying out some items it certainly works. The angled table I have in front of a grindstone for sharpening my lathe tools, had a small section glued onto it and it was very pleasing to move the tool steel across the face of the wheel.
Next I tried the sanding tool and no problems occurred, so it looks as if it 'does what it says on the tin' and I will add more tape to the Proxxon bandsaw and the home built saw table. The only change I would have made is to have ordered just one box instead of the second since it does go a long long way.
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The main ingredients…
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One length cut into two halves using a ‘Stanley’ knife.
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Clamping the tape to the top
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The strips in place
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The ‘other’ table top with its tape in place
About Mike Freeman
Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom.
I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups.
Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again.
I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's
learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought.
My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a
stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own
shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the
bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!)
It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in
relevant positions.
Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable
speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep.
I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer.
Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This
was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!