Security gate made for a good friend

It was nice to get back to fabrication recently. I was asked by a local man whether I would make a security gate for him and I jumped at the chance since I love fabricating especially angle and square tube work. After getting the dimensions and other requirements from this gentleman I ordered the metal from out local stockist Austen Knapman.

The metal duly arrived and the delivery man kindly laid it out on two folding benches. Since I have a disability, bending or working at floor level, is near impossible so I set the tables up with a spirit level and with my bandsaw relocated to the second garage I cut the metal to length. Fortunately Austen Knapman cut the metal to size give or take an inch (25.4mm) or so which made accurate trimming easy.

The materials as received from Austen Knapman

The materials as received from Austen Knapman

I now had a 'kit' of parts and set the outside of the security doors angle iron first. The major task was to ensure not only was the frame square but because it was not on the floor, without any twist. I achieved this by using a builders level then clamping the parts together. To get the overall size I needed to add the two securing uprights with the hinges and padlock metalwork in position. This allowed me to get the frame to its 845mm width.

Security gate outside frame being squared up

Security gate outside frame being squared up

The hinges were made from stock BMS which after deciding on the diameter of the hinge pin and turning it down its partner was drilled and reamed to match. The length of the in was reduced later on to match the clearance above the door. The gate will be taken off at times so having the ability to remove the door was built into the design.

Using a spirit level to set the framework level in both directions

Using a spirit level to set the framework level in both directions

Once the outside frame was tack welded into place the distance between bars was calculated and marked out at both ends. (took me a while to make the right answer!). Now that the bars were secured the three bracing bars were located then tacked as well.

Fortunateley the chap I was making the door for arrived to lend a hand (and do the lifting!). Since he had the place for the door to fit into in his mind he was tasked with drilling the holes in the two uprights for the securing bolts. In the meantime, after checking with him that all was correct in relation to overall dimensions, I carried on and welded up all the joints. The framework was then turned and the underside welded where neccessary.

The hinges were set to the correct height within the framework using spacers and after marking the piece to be welded (it wouldn't come apart else!) as suggested by my friend, the hinges were tack welded to check they were in line and would work. Once all were cooled down and parted we decided to reduce their length to make sure there was enough clearance for them to be lifted off.

Gate nearly finished

Gate nearly finished

That brought an end to my contribution and I waved the gate good bye as it rode on the top of his car as he headed home..............

I was pleased and more than a little relieved when I had a phone call saying it fitted nice an snugly. His next task would be to paint it using hammerite and after taken some photo's, send them to me. One unusual experience is he bought a can of hammerite spray (cost 25% of the door!) which was defective and not enough coverage so he painted it with gloss instead. Below are the photo's he sent me.......

The frame fitted in its place

The frame fitted in its place

Outside view of gate

Outside view of gate

I really enjoyed making this gate and it was completed in a couple of my sessions. I need to get back into the workshop as soon as I am fit enough again to finish the motorcycle handlebars, then three key rings, before I start on the Seals! Happy days.

About Mike Freeman

Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom. I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups. Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again. I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought. My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!) It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in relevant positions. Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep. I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer. Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
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