Sunday 19th July 2009
After completing the little spur gears yesterday I considered the only other outstanding project for someone else, my brother in law Steve’s motorcycle (adjustable) handlebars. With the saw table nearly completed, well enough to use it at least, then once the handlebars were done, I could get back to this years main project, the pair of Seal engines.
When reviewing where I was I thought that my initial approach of getting these large chunks of metal to the 35mm depth was correct. If you read an earlier posting you will know I put the project to one side because I was having a little difficulty with all the ‘X’ axis handle turning on the milling machine (I have a few back issues). However overnight I thought I was making it harder for myself by not cutting the blocks as small as possible using the bandsaw first. So today whilst turning one on the lathe the other block was in the bandsaw.
I had taken the decision to turn one of the two blocks by attaching it to a faceplate on my larger Turner lathe. Something I have tended to shy away from in the past through lack of experience really. However prompted by the need to find an easier way to remove the metal I mounted one on the face plate and this proved far easier than I thought, although I had to make some fittings to clamp the aluminum in place. A classic case of something you’ve not done before being easier than you think.
With the bandsaw working hard in the background good progress was made with the first block on the lathe, before they were swapped over finally bringing both to size. I may well use these two brackets to experiment as it were with making one on the lathe and the second on the milling machine.
Two 'blocks' of aluminum for motorcycle brackets
The next stage was to centre the block on the faceplate so I could bore the first 45mm diameter hole. To do this I made a pointer that one end was held in an ER25 collet in the tailstock. The other pointed end was placed into the centre punched hole marking the bores centre. This held the block in place whilst the clamps were tightened. Then the pointer was used with a dial indicator to centre the piece by adjusting the clamps.
Using a DTI to centre the piece for boring out one 45mm diameter bore
I must admit that whilst the home made clamps made recently are not that pretty they are effective. I take great comfort however that the famous Edgar T Westbury mentions in his articles that he was often criticised for his work holding using whatever came to hand as it were. Well if its good enough for Edgar its certainly good enough for me! That’s not to say I won’t replace them overtime with neater clamps, but my time in the workshop seems to be more limited nowadays so needs must.
After setting the piece running true I packed up for the day since England were bowling and a win is on the cards……………sorry to my Aussie friends………
Cricket - lovely cricket!
About Mike Freeman
Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom.
I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups.
Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again.
I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's
learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought.
My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a
stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own
shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the
bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!)
It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in
relevant positions.
Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable
speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep.
I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer.
Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This
was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
