More progress and real movement for saw table

Over the last couple of sessions I have made some progress on the saw table project. Today I completed the quadrant for the saw height adjustment and assembled all the parts to date. I decided that the next job would be to give the back plate a little ‘clean up’ and used a wire brush in the milling machine to polish off the marks that naturally occur when making an item.

Now that the mechanism was complete it allowed me to make up the drive belt which I found more difficult than expected. I tried out the process on a couple of scrap pieces and simply melting the ends produced all sorts of results. After some practice I managed a reasonable result that allowed me to make a good joint on the proper belt.

When running the system for the first time I was pleased that all turned as expected and the drive from the belt worked with varying tension settings. After 30 seconds or so the whole thing stopped dead. The pulley that holds the gear wheel on has seized up. On investigation the bolt holding the pulley on had tightened itself up sufficiently enough to stop it. The design was not meant to rely on any securing method to impact on the pulley turning. I had turned the shaft so that it extended beyond the brass pulley and in theory it should have worked. When looking at the problem further I thought that perhaps I had not left enough showing and all sorts of ideas came to mind particularly taking some of the pulley width off.

However the answer was simply to change the washer on the end of the shaft from one that covered the whole bearing to a much smaller one that only covered the end of the inner shaft. This cured the problem so the motor was started again and run for a couple of minutes before the saw blade stopped again. This time it was the pulley that holds the saw blade that had seized. Looking closely it was the shaft that was binding and I simply took a couple of thou off the end of the shaft being careful not to reduce the shaft part that the bearing sat on.

The motor was started again and all ran as it should do. I then varied the height of the blade to the two extremes and tensioned the belt to suit. All ran well and I will now be able to cut the studding used for the blade adjustment.

Suitable pleased I thought I would make a start on the top plate and soon produced the first part of the top with the slot for the diamond grit and two sizes of saw blade to fit in. This was placed in situ and I thought I would just ‘try’ the blade to see how it would cut. I am glad I did since I will have to ensure that any clamping system will take into account the kick back effect found when cutting some brass sheet. I then tried a ¼” diameter steel bar and you can see the results in the pictures. It wasn’t really a proper test since the bar wasn’t held properly but it actually cut better then the brass sheet. I have no doubt about the blades ability to cut. Then I tried the end of the HT steel that bar that started the whole project and was really pleased to see the small cut that appeared in the end of the bar! It will cut it and that’s good news.

So today’s session really is the beginning of the end…………………………………..watch this space.


About Mike Freeman

Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom. I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups. Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again. I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought. My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!) It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in relevant positions. Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep. I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer. Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
This entry was posted in Carbide Saw table, General engineering posts, One off projects and tagged . Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Follow Me