I needed to bore two 1 1/8th holes at either end of the main cylinder block casting on the Seal 15cc 4 cylinder engine. So it would be a simple job of bolting the block to the angle plate on the mill wouldn't it? Well the first thing I checked for was the length of the longest boring bar, which of course was too short. Ok I would make one, a little more time but not a big problem. Just in case I thought I would check the amount of travel on the Z axis (downward travel) of my mill and yes, you guessed, not enough!
After a cup of tea and a ponder I decided I would have to use the method Edgar T Westbury himself used 62 years ago and bore the holes between centres on the lathe cross slide. So the tool post would have to come off. Something I had yet to do so it was with a little apprehension that I started to look to see how to do it. In the end it was quite simple. With the tool post removed the cylinder block was then put between the two centres using the blanks to position the casting (see photo below).
This allowed me to measure the distance between the base of the block and the top of the cross slide. The packing required was then sourced and some machining will be required to get it so the casting can be bolted down securely. That's where I will be picking up the job next time.
Button to centre for boring through the casting...
Buttons help to centre casting to work out packing required......
Tool post and top slide removed from Myford ML10....
About Mike Freeman
Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom.
I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups.
Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again.
I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's
learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought.
My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a
stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own
shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the
bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!)
It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in
relevant positions.
Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable
speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep.
I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer.
Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This
was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
