My first attempt at welding aluminium goes well!


Welding alumium has always been a specialised task so I thought. However I have read a few articles in the past about a system of welding aluminium that is supposed to be as easy as 1,2,3! Life never seems so easy in reality and it would be interesting to see if the claims were true. At the moment I am in the middle of refurbishing a Myford ML7 and one of the castings had a crack in it that ran through both sides. So it seemed a good time to try out the claims that Durafix make for their product.

The process involves cleaning up the part to be welded with the supplied stainless steel wire brush. Then the parts need to be brought to the temperature at which the welding rods will melt when in contact with the metal, and not the flame of the propane.

Here is where I learnt an important (and obvious now) fact that there is a considerable amount of heat required to get the metal to the 700 °plus needed. The great amount of heat is made worse by holding the parts to be welded together in the vice. As we know aluminum is a great conductor of heat so you end up heating the parts plus the iron vice!

Well when the heat was eventually reached the welding rod was rigorously rubbed in the indented V between the two parts and the rod flowed easily enough into the space. After letting the whole area (!) cool down the two pieces were inspected and there seemed to be a good weld considering the small run or weld.

Armed with this experience I moved out into the garage and decided to hold the casting to be welded in my ‘old’ B&D work bench. At least the heat transfer problem from the trial wouldn’t occur although the piece to be heated up was much bigger than the practice piece. At least I knew it would take some heating up and I was now prepared for that.

After grinding out a V shape in each side of the crack the casting was held in the workmate bench and heating started. When I thought it was getting close to temperature the flames fierceness was dropping off…..yes the gas was running out. Quickly I got my spare cylinder out only to find it also was empty. How I don’t know but it was. So I had to go and find a supplier, needless to say the first one only had empties himself! Eventually I returned home with a full cylinder but a cold casting! SO the process started again with cleaning the area to be welded being brushed hard with the supplied stainless steel brush, the heating supplied and after several minutes the rod was applied away form the flame and it ran into the V nicely. It was here that I learnt my second and important lesson, if I turned the casting over, would the weld already made drop through? Well it was too late to worry about that now and heat was again applied to get the casting up to temperature and the weld done as for the first one. When looking, the work done before was undone.

I decided that the crack, which opened slightly when heated the first time, allowed the welding rod to flow through so that was a positive but I would redo the outside edge and accept that the inside joint would have to be held the best I could. When allowed to cool the outside weld was done and the inside had also a good depth of weld but it had been about to drip. So the next time I try a repair similar to this one I will place some material over the first repair so it has no where to go, before doing the second side. I am sure that will make a neater and therefore stronger weld.

So what were my overall impressions?

1.      You need a significant source of heating if you are repairing a large part.

2.      The three steps are easy enough to remember and the kit does come with everything you need.

3.      I was considering ordering a larger amount of rods (I got 20) but they should last for a long time, as there didn’t seem to be a lot of wastage.

4.      I am happy that the casting repair was done to the instructions i.e. the rod being melted by the casting and not the flame. Therefore it should be a strong weld, as they say it is stronger than the surrounding metal.

5.      It takes longer than you think to heat the material.

Will I use it again? You bet. I think this is a serious solution to welding aluminum and I will experiment with other repairs to learn better techniques. So I think it was a success. Makes a change to find something that in the end does what it says!

About Mike Freeman

Hello, my name is Mike Freeman and I am a retired Chief Fire Officer from the United Kingdom with a keen interest in model engineering, silver caddy spoons and sea fishing. I live in the pretty fishing port of Brixham, South Devon, in the United Kingdom. I am a sufferer of degenerative osteoarthritis, which impacts on the amount of time I can spend in the workshop, and is the reason why you will see seats and a stool in some of the photo's. I have only recently added the above sentence after a discussion with one of my Doctor's from the excellent pain clinic, based in Torbay. This does affect concentration one of the reasons why I double then re-double my measurements and set ups. Before completing nearly 30 years of public service I and my wife Sandy, owned and ran, a small restaurant in Okehampton Devon. Prior to marriage I worked for my father in his various businesses, in the early days these were garages, which he bought in a run down state, then built them up before moving on, to start again. I took every opportunity in those early days, to work in his workshop's learning 'on the job' rather than as an apprentice. This, I suspect, is the reason why my building various model's in the early days, turned into model engineering, when funds allowed the required equipment to be bought. My workshop comprises one half of a detached double garage. It has a stud wall separating the two halves and unusually perhaps, its own shower/toilet/washbasin compartment! (the true reason for buying the bungalow - don't tell the wife!!!) It is fully insulated with a ceiling and fluorescent lighting supplementing the one window. Several double electrical sockets are dotted around in relevant positions. Equipment consists of 2 lathes (1 Myford ML 10 and 1 Chinese variable speed motor with etched glass DRO's), 1 milling machine (RF25 far East) floor standing pillar drill, Proxxon bandsaw, Warco bandsaw, 6" wire brush and polishing mop motor, 6" coarse and fine grinder, Proxxon mini drill, various benches and an engineers vice. I have just acquired a third lathe, a Myford ML7 which I am at present evaluating so I can decide which of the Myford's I will keep. I have only just bought the Chinese lathe and had it fitted with DRO's prior to delivery. And what a bonus they are! So good in fact that I decided to buy another set for the Milling machine. Whilst my engineering experience can only be described as limited, I find the use of DRO's has affected my accuracy levels which have improved tremendously (although that's not saying much!) and would recommend their fitting to any model engineer. Prior to retirement I built for my son's 17th birthday a Locost car. This was a tremendous project and a great feeling when it passed its test. The book it was based on suggests it can be built for £250. Ours was nothing special in the sense of all new parts but still cost about £900 to build!
This entry was posted in General engineering posts and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to My first attempt at welding aluminium goes well!

  1. Mike, thanks for these tips on Ali welding. I wonder if it is possible to make the equivalent of “soft jaws” for the vice from a non conducting material such as ceramic or glass? I suppose the problem is that most such insulators are brittle.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Follow Me